What's the difference between Direct TV, Dish Network, Digital Cable and Digital Television?

I get asked quite a bit what the difference is between Digital TV, Satellite TV and Digital Cable TV. Digital Television, including HDTV, received over the air is FREE. Like cable, Your home satellite networks are not free. You will pay a monthly subscription fee. DIRECTV and Dish Network are the nation's two leading Home satellite networks. Like cable, they both package a variety of channels, including sports, movies, news, even local broadcast stations, and send the digital satellite signal to rooftop dish antennas on their subscriber's homes. Digital Television, on the other hand, is transmitted from TV towers. Broadcasters are required to always provide a free signal; however, the ATSC standard allows them to develop additional over the air pay Digital TV services if they choose. Digital Television broadcasters must also follow the federally mandated ATSC digital television standards for quality and the broadcast signals are designed to be displayed on DTV sets. Satellite networks can chose any digital standard they wish and their signals are designed to be shown on traditional analog sets. However, both DIRECTV and Dish Network have begun broadcasting some HDTV programs, and these programs do follow the ATSC standards and must be viewed on an HDTV set to enjoy the higher resolution picture.

A/V Reporter,
CL West

Politicians playing digital TV 'hard' ball!

A little over three weeks ago I stumbled upon an article from Reuters News Media concerning a question that comes up on a daily basis in the Audio/Video Electronics field and that is will 2006 be the year analog signals are shut off? Well, it seems as though it is getting a good push from the republicans in the House and Senate. I will continue to follow this for our readers as this is the most asked question in consumer Audio/Video Electronics.
A/V Reporter,
CL West

Thursday, February 3, 06:38 PM [Reuters New Media]

WASHINGTON (Hollywood Reporter) - The chairman of the House Commerce Committee plans to fast-track legislation setting the end of 2006 as a "hard date" when TV stations must quit broadcasting on their existing analog channels. Legislation forcing broadcasters to complete the final transition to digital needs to be passed swiftly in order to improve the government's balance sheet, Rep. Joe Barton, R-Texas, said Tuesday as he laid out his priorities for telecommunications legislation in the 109th Congress. "I think there ought to be a hard date," he said. "I think it ought to be the one in the law." Currently, broadcasters are required to stop analog transmissions at the end of 2006, or when 85% of the U.S. TV viewing audience receives a digital signal, whichever comes later. The 85% number has long been considered an unreachable goal. "This either or, if we leave the or, you'll never have a transition," Barton said. Although Barton has been an advocate of setting a date for the end of analog broadcasts, this is the most aggressive position he's taken on the switch. His call for ending the broadcasts was seconded by Rep. Fred Upton, R-Mich., chairman of the Commerce Committee's telecommunications subcommittee. "There's billions and billions of dollars out there, and that money should be used in reconciliation (of the national deficit) this year," he said. With the deficit topping $400 billion, the pressure to find money is becoming intense. Both President Bush and President Clinton included provisions in their budget requests to Congress that would encourage broadcasters to vacate the analog channels. Broadcasters still using the analog spectrum after the nation's proposed 2006 switch to digital television would have to pay the FCC as much as $500 million each year to continue using that spectrum under legislation Bush proposed as part of his 2004 budget plan. Auctioning the analog channels is estimated to bring in tens of billions. "In my committee, I have the votes," Barton said. "On the floor, I have the votes. In the other body, that's an open question." The comments by Barton and Upton come as broadcasters are facing their stiffest challenge over the conversion to digital TV in years. Next week, the FCC is expected to approve a plan that will require cable operators to carry only the channel that most resembles broadcasters' current offerings.

What are the visible differences between HDTV and our present television system?

A: Your current TV set has a 4 to 3 screen ratio and almost square. HDTV screens are about one-third wider than existing TV screens (16 by 9 ratio) or (letter box), which is more like the aspect ratio of a movie screen. Because of the added width, HDTV screens more easily match the peripheral vision range of the human eye, making it more natural to watch. You will notice the pictures are clearer, crisper and more detailed, the viewer has an almost three dimensional feeling when watching a video HDTV broadcast. You can actually see details you missed while looking at them in real life. Complimenting the amazing quality of the pictures is superb sound. With 5.1 channels of audio, HDTV delivers CD quality surround sound: front speakers on the right, center and left, along with two back speakers and a subwoofer. Unlike HDTV, the present analog system signal suffers degradation as it travels from the antenna site. Viewers often see double images or "ghosting" and very poor picture quality. With high definition, the picture is always studio quality, whether the viewer's television set is located six miles or sixty miles from the antenna.


A/V Reporter,
CL West

Does a Plasma TV burn out after a couple of years?

I feel it's time to put this Video Urban Legend to rest! You could expect to be watching your Plasma TV set for a decade or longer. Let me point out that I am really referencing the length of time its picture will maintain its color integrity or intensity. The lifespan of plasma TVs is measured relative to the half life of its phosphor gases. Half life is the point at which plasma manufacturers posit that the picture brilliance has diminished enough to make a very noticeable difference in picture quality and possibly merit replacement. Half life, then, is the true halfway point in the lifespan of the product. As for the specific life spans of individual plasma display units, most manufacturers contend that their TVs last approximately 30,000 hours before reaching their half lives under "normal" viewing conditions (i.e., with the CONTRAST set at around 50%). Recently, several manufacturers, most notably Sony and Panasonic, have begun to claim that their newest plasma display panels now have half lives of 60,000 hours. From the consumer's perspective, though, the 30,000 hour figure should be comforting, since this is about how long CRTs last. Let me put this in perspective: Assuming the average American household watches 4 to 6 hours of television per day, a plasma display will last between 13 and 20 years. That's quite a bit of bang for your buck!

A/V Reporter,
CL West

Audio and Video Cables

No system is complete without the Audio/Video cables that connect everything. Most components come with free A/V cables that allow you to hook up your system and get it running. In most cases, though, these cables are worth what you paid (Free). Upgrading to a higher quality of wire can make a noticeable difference in how your A/V system looks and sounds. Assuming you've decided what types of cables and wires you need, you're left with a large assortment of brands and quality levels to choose from.

Does any of it make a difference?
In some cases, yes. Larger speaker wire passes more of the audio amplifier's signal on to the speakers themselves, assuming that the length is relatively long (30 feet) or the speakers are harder to drive (less than 4 ohms). The same is true of video cables. Low resolution signals, like NTSC, don't require thick wires. A decent-quality S-video cable, for an example, can run up to a couple of hundred feet. Poor quality cables, on the other hand, don't. There are plenty of affordable, decent quality video cables. Upconverted or high definition signals should only be run only over short lengths, though, with regular, not mini, sized cables. Digital audio signals can use the same wire as composite video cables. You should also keep line level audio cables as short as possible, unless you're using balanced cables, which can be longer. You should expect to spend five to ten percent of your home theater's budget on cables.

A/V Reporter,
CL West

Surround Decoding!

Have you ever wanted to know what all the surround sound formats meant when talking with an Audio Salesman? Well we are here to clarify it for you. The surround sound formats supported by the A/V system will affect the realism and intensity of the experience.

Dolby Pro Logic: base level surround decoding that will work with essentially any source.Generates front left and right, center, and surround outputs (with the mono surround output normally reproduced through two speakers). Works well only with Dolby Surround encoded soundtracks. This or Dolby Pro Logic II is an essential feature.

Dolby Pro Logic II: an advanced version of Dolby Pro Logic. It provides superior surround decoding with stereo surround output. Also works very well for generating five channel surround from two channel stereo music recordings, such as CDs. Highly desirable. If you could have only one surround decoding option, this would be the one for you to choose.

Dolby Pro Logic IIx: enhanced version of DPL II that can deliver up to 7.1-channel output. Nice if you can put one or two back surround speakers in the room in addition to the standard left and right surrounds, but would be useless otherwise.

Dolby Digital: Dolby Digital decoding is the best choice for multichannel Dolby Digital soundtracks delivered in that format, as they are on DVD, HDTV, and some satellite transmissions. But it's useless for things like VHS releases or analog TV programs that can't carry Dolby Digital but can deliver Dolby Surround. For those you need Dolby Pro Logic or Pro Logic II, which are, in effect, universal sound decoders. And, if you have to choose just one, choose DPL II.

Dolby Digital EX: an enhanced version of Dolby Digital that allows a back surround channel in soundtracks in addition to the usual left and right surrounds. Nice to have if you can accommodate the extra speaker or two at the back, but useless otherwise. Works well with Dolby Digital EX and some regular Dolby Digital soundtracks.

DTS: an alternative surround encoding/decoding format that is functionally equivalent to Dolby Digital. It offers no advantage, however, and is not as widely used. Not really needed except for certain special DTS encoded multichannel CDs.

A/V Reporter,
CL West

Extended Warranties, should you buy one?

About 50% — 60% of what a Audio/Video Electronics Store makes comes from extended warranties. Combine that with the fact that an estimated 80% of consumers who purchase extended warranties never make a claim and it's clear how these service contracts can equal huge profits for A/V retailers. Some estimates say, of all the money Electronics retailers receive for extended warranties, they pay out a mere 15% for product repairs or replacements. High priced ticket items such as Plasma or LCD Flat Screen TV's, an extended warranty is recommended as the repair cost at this time are High. However Extended Warranties on other A/V Products should be at the consumers discretion especially if peace of mind is important to you.

A/V Reporter,
CL West

Audio/Video Electronics Customer Disputes and How to Get a Resolution in Customers Favor!

We A/V customers have been through it at some point in our life when a purchase was made (Say a Home Entertainment system) and we were not satisfied for some reason and attempted to return the item. First you attempted to return it to your salesman, who then would refer you to his department MGR. who would take you to the store MGR. who would then say no, he could not take the Home Entertainment system back.

How do you get satisfaction?
First, don't stop at the store MGR. It's his job to keep you from bringing back merchandise.Call the store and ask for the District Mgr.'s name and phone number. If you still don't get satisfaction then write Corporate a letter telling them of your problem. I've personally noticed 95% of the time when it gets to any of the Big Shots in Corporate, it gets kicked back down to the store MGR., who in turn will have to resolve the problem to the customers satisfaction. Yes, I know it's simple.

A/V Reporter,
CL West

Beware of Bait and Switch Tactics in Consumer A/V Electronics!

What is Bait and Switch?
You enter a store with a specific A/V product in mind. Perhaps, you were drawn to that seller because of an advertisement offering a great sale price on a particular item.The advertisement has baited your interest, and you visit the Electronics store because you intend to buy that item. In a bait and switch, what happens next is the salesperson switches you to a different Audio or Video product, one that will make the seller more profit and in all likelihood, won't be as good as the A/V product you originally sought to purchase.If it's a great sale price that has drawn your attention, you'll be told you're too late, they're "sold out" of that model, but have something "just as good." It may even be cheaper than the Audio/Video item that caught your eye in the first place, but it won't be as good and the seller's mark up will be larger.

Bait and Switch is an illegal, unethical but widely practiced technique.

• Unethical sellers advertise Audio/Video products at prices that are too good to be true andwhen people want to buy the item, it is unavailable at that price without buying other overpriced items so that the store makes a profit overall.

• Unethical sales associates take the order at prices that are too good to be true and ship a usedor broken A/V product instead of the brand new Factory goods promised.

• Unethical salesman take the order of the Audio/Video product at prices that are too good to betrue and try one of the two techniques above, and if unsuccessful, tell you that the one you orderedis gray good, meaning that it was intended for sale outside the U.S. and therefore does not comewith a U.S. warranty. You will then be given an option to buy an extended warranty at an expensive price to make up for the item you saw advertised below their cost to get you to order.
  
• Remember, an educated consumer is the Electronics Dealers worst customer!
  

A/V Reporter,
CL West

Negotiating a Great Price on Audio and Video Products!

Want to get the lowest price on your Audio or Video purchase? It's easy and I'll show you how. First, do some research on the Internet or go to your local electronics dealer in your area and get an idea of what's out there and learn what new technology there is on A/V equipment. Narrow your choices to around three models that you feel is right for you and write those model numbers down on a piece of paper. Now again do a little research on the Internet and get consumers opinions on the three models that you have targeted to possibly purchase and narrow it down to one model. (It is important to get opinions from real consumers and not reviews from websites that sell Consumer Electronics as they would have a bias on which products you buy.) After this initial phase of model selection for your Audio or Video equipment we work on price. Remember that most Electronics Dealers have the same policy in effect that goes something like this: If you find a lower price, we will beat that same price by 110% of the difference, which means that if you see an item that cost $100 in store A and you go to store B and it is priced there for $150, you then tell store B that you saw the same item at store A for $100 at which time store B should bring their price down to $95, the difference being $55 in this case. However, while it sounds good here are the pitfalls for the consumer. In the fine print of a retailers ad you will find that the pricing policy is for any advertised items of the same model only and not an in-store lower price, also many of the larger consumer electronics dealers have exclusive model numbers or models that are the same but model numbers changed slightly at the large retailers request for the sole purpose of not having to match prices. With all the playing around that these Electronics Dealers do and the extremes that they go through so that they don't have to price match, it gets harder for the consumer to get a reasonably good price without a little knowledge in hand before he purchases. Here is what you do and in most cases you will walk out of a store knowing that you have gotten a great deal.

• Get three of the lowest prices of the Brand and Model number of your Audio or Video product off the Internet. (One from an Authorized Online Dealer and two more low prices from either an Authorized or Unauthorized Online Dealer.)

• Call all the Local Electronics Dealers by phone and get the lowest price of the model number, if they do not price quote on the phone simply tell them that you have a Internet price and would they match it. Tip: A small electronics dealer will more likely give you a lower price then the larger dealers like Circuit City, Best Buy, Sears and even Walmart. If you would rather stick with one of the larger A/V dealers simply get the low price from an independent electronics store and bring it to one of the major Audio/Video chains, they love trying to stick it to one of the little guys in town, however the little independent electronics stores love playing David to Goliath also.

With low price in hand from the Internet and all your cold calling to all local electronics dealers, it's time to negotiate. Follow these rules in negotiating a price and you will most likely come out with a bargain.

• Ask the sales associate what his best price would be on the model you are looking at and don't show the sales associate your lowest price you have yet. Tip: Tell the sales associate that you may be interested in the Extended Warranty if the price is right. (Now before you get excited you are not committing to getting the extended warranty unless of course you plan to anyway. We are simply baiting the sales associate who makes money or is hammered every day to sell the warranty and has the added incentive to get the lowest price, also the MGR will more then likely give you his best price because he most likely gets bonus on the numbers of extended warranty that is sold).

If the sales associate comes back with a price that beats your lowest price found on the Internet or cold calling then you can assume that you have made a good deal, however feel free to go to another Electronics Dealer and see if he can beat the price. Tip: If price was negotiated down with the assumption by the sales associate that you were taking the extended warranty, simply wait for the sales associate to enter your ticket and before you pay tell the cashier or sales associate that you have changed your mind about the warranty if you did not want to purchase it. You see there is nothing that the sales associate or the store MGR can do because it is an illegal practice to pack warranty without the intent to give you the price of your Audio or Video product, you won't get an argument and if you do, all you have to mention is that it is illegal to pack service, the associate and MGR will understand what you are saying. Good Luck!

A/V Reporter,
CL West

Why Authorization Is Important!

Buying from an authorized Electronics dealer protects you from gray-market A/V goods which have been obtained illegally. You want to be sure your Audio and Video equipment was intended to be sold in the US market and is not a "gray market" unit. Gray market units may look the same as those intended to be sold in the US, but they may not meet the same performance specifications. They're not likely to be UL listed, so they may be unsafe. They may lack all or some of the accessories provided with US models. They may be difficult or even impossible to repair.

Protect against: Foreign models sold as US models.
Foreign countries have different voltage 100v, 100 volt, 200 V, 200 volt, 220v, 220 volt, 230v, 230 volt, 120v 120 volt, 110v, 110 volt, 240v and 240 volt. It is important to get the right Region specific product for USA and Canada use.

• Region 1, Code 1, Zone 1 - USA & Canada
• Region 2, Code 2, Zone 2 - Europe, Japan, The Middle East, North Africa Egypt, S. Africa
• Region 3, Code 3, Zone 3 - Taiwan, The Philippines, Korea, Indonesia, Hong Kong.
• Region 4, Code 4, Zone 4 - Mexico, South America, Central America, Australia, New Zealand, Pacific Islands, Caribbean.
• Region 5, Code 5, Zone 5 - Russia, Eastern Europe, India, North Korea, East & West Africa.
• Region 6, Code 6, Zone 6 - China

Protect against: Items missing key parts or components, and refurbished Audio and Video products sold as new.

Because of the nature of the Internet, only a select few sites are chosen as "Authorized Dealers" by the top name brand manufacturers. Purchasing from an Authorized dealer is about protecting yourself. It's about putting your trust in a company that has been chosen based on their ability to properly represent, sell and, in most cases, service the product you're making the choice to buy. You benefit because many manufacturers provide Authorized Retailers with thorough, ongoing training. Audio and Video Manufacturers make sure Authorized Retailers learn how to set up and use their products. And they typically inform their Authorized Retailers about any product recalls or modifications. You can count on an Authorized Retailer to pass any important information they receive on to you.

Why should you purchase from an Authorized Internet Retailer?
You can count on your equipment's warranty being honored. Some manufacturers will only honor a request for service under warranty if the item was purchased from an Authorized Retailer. You may be asked to show proof of purchase in the form of a dated invoice from an Authorized Retailer.

Remember: One mistake can cost a small fortune for the sake of saving a few dollars from an unauthorized dealer. Buyer Beware!

A/V Reporter,
CL West